British pork cuts

Pork is one of the most versatile meats on our counter. It goes from quick-fried chops to slow-roasted shoulder that you pull apart with a fork, and of course it gives you crackling.

The butcher's rule of thumb: pork is generally more tender than beef because pigs are younger at slaughter. The same rule still applies, though. The muscles along the back, the loin and fillet, are the most tender and suit quicker cooking. The shoulder and legs work harder, carry more fat and connective tissue, and reward slow cooking with deeper flavour. And on almost every cut, the fat is where the flavour is, so don't be too quick to trim it off.

Front

The shoulder and front legs, from the cheek back to the fore hock. This is the slow-cooking end of the pig, and the traditional home of pork pie meat.

Cheek

Also called: jowl.
The cheek muscle from the pig's head. It's a small, rich nugget of meat with plenty of connective tissue and a deep flavour. Cured, the jowl becomes guanciale, the Italian bacon used in a proper carbonara.

Best for: braising, stews and slow cooking.
Butcher's tip: it's one of the best-kept secrets on the pig. Braise for two to three hours and you'll get meat that melts in your mouth, for very little money.

Spare rib

Also called: collar, neck end.

The upper part of the shoulder, just behind the head. It's well marbled, with fat running all through the meat, which keeps it juicy however you cook it. Don't confuse it with the rib bones sold as "spare ribs", which come from the belly.

Best for: spare rib chops and steaks, slow roasting and pulled pork.
Butcher's tip: if you find loin chops too dry, try spare rib chops instead. The marbling makes them much more forgiving under the grill.

Blade

Part of the shoulder around the shoulder blade, below the spare rib. It's lean meat with enough fat and connective tissue to stay moist through a long cook, and it's often boned and rolled into a good-value roasting joint.
Best for: slow roasting, pulled pork, diced pork and casseroles.
Butcher's tip: a blade joint slow-roasted for four to five hours is one of the best-value family dinners in the shop.
Part of the shoulder around the shoulder blade, below the spare rib. Lean meat with some fat and connective tissue.

Hand and spring

Also called: hand.
The lower part of the shoulder above the front leg. It's a hard-working cut with plenty of flavour and a good covering of skin, so you'll get great crackling. It's sold on or off the bone.

Best for: slow roasting with crackling, pulled pork and sausage meat.
Butcher's tip: for crackling that shatters, pat the skin bone dry, rub in plenty of salt and start the joint in a very hot oven before turning it down for the long cook.

Fore hock

Also called: knuckle.
The lower front leg, between the shoulder and the trotter. It's bony, with gelatinous meat and a thick layer of skin. That's not much use for a quick dinner, but it's brilliant for slow cooking.

Best for: braising, soups, stocks and terrines.
Butcher's tip: add a fore hock to a pan of soup or beans and it'll give body and flavour you can't get any other way.

Middle

The back and underside: the lean loin and fillet along the top, and the belly below.

Loin

Runs along the back from the shoulder to the hip. It's lean and tender, with a layer of fat and skin on top. Loin chops, loin steaks and racks all come from here, and so do baby back ribs. Cured, the loin becomes back bacon.

Best for: roasting with crackling, chops, steaks and racks.
Butcher's tip: loin is lean, so the danger is overcooking it. Cook it until the juices run clear, then take it out and rest it. Don't leave it in "just to be sure".

Fillet

A long, thin muscle tucked under the back end of the loin. It's the leanest and most tender cut on the pig, and it cooks in minutes.

Best for: medallions, stir-fries, quick roasting, and wrapping in bacon.
Butcher's tip: peel off the thin silvery membrane before cooking. Sear it all over in a hot pan, then finish it in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes.

Belly

Also called: streaky.
The underside of the pig, below the loin. It has alternating layers of fat and lean meat with skin on top, so it's rich and full of flavour. Streaky bacon, lardons and the rib bones sold as spare ribs all come from here.

Best for: slow roasting with crackling, belly slices, spare ribs, streaky bacon and lardons.
Butcher's tip: slow-roast belly skin-side up for two to three hours, then turn the heat right up at the end to blister the crackling. That way you get soft meat and crisp skin.

Back

The hind end: the chump, the leg and the lower leg down to the trotters.

Chump


Also called: chump end
The rump end of the loin, where it meets the leg. It's meaty, with a little more fat and connective tissue than the loin, which gives it more flavour.

Best for: chump chops and steaks, and small roasting joints.
Butcher's tip: chump chops are thicker and meatier than loin chops, and they're good value. They're great on the grill or barbecue.

Leg

The hind leg. It's large, lean and meaty, and it's sold whole or as smaller roasting joints, leg steaks and diced pork. Cured, the leg is known as gammon, and once it's cooked, it's ham.

Best for: roasting with crackling, leg steaks, diced pork, and gammon when cured.
Butcher's tip: leg is lean, so roast it with the skin on to protect the meat. Rest it for 20 minutes before you carve.

Hind hock

Also called: ham hock, knuckle.

The lower back leg, between the leg and the trotter. It's larger and meatier than the fore hock, with plenty of gelatine and a thick layer of skin. It's usually sold cured as a ham hock.

Best for: pea and ham soup, terrines, and slow braising.
Butcher's tip: simmer a ham hock for two to three hours, pick the meat off and keep the stock. It's two meals for the price of one.

Trotters

Also called: pig's feet.

The feet below the hocks. They're mostly skin, bone and gelatine. There's not much meat on them, but they're invaluable in the kitchen: trotters are what traditionally gives a pork pie its jelly.

Best for: stocks, jellies, and adding body to slow-cooked dishes.
Butcher's tip: drop a trotter into your next stock or stew and it'll set like proper jelly when it cools.